Friday, January 18, 2013

Phnom Penh Journal V


Saturday, 19 January, 2013
At Brown Coffee Shop

An observant student who has read my journals from last year and then read last week's journal observed  "You seem already a bit “hardened” to these patients at the hospital suffering from illness unparalleled to those we would ever see in a developed nation. Do you have some remaining shell from your last visit?"  I had written "The first week has been very different than anything I experienced in March . . .  the intensity of sickness at the hospital is less overwhelming".  

Her comment perturbed me, because I don't want to be hardened.  The suffering is as intense this year; the chaotic and often destructive care many patients receive from traditional doctors or district hospitals is just as prevalent; the barriers to providing the care they might receive in most developed countries are just as impenetrable.  

On Monday a 38-year-old man was admitted because of fever and profound lassitude.  He had been sick for a month.  He had received unknown antibiotics and other remedies, but his family saw that he was getting steadily worse.  When we admitted him we learned that he had been bleeding into his stool ("melena"), that he was profoundly anemic and that he had neither platelets nor white cells.  He had a large spleen.  Twice a day his temperature rose to  38.7 and he had chills that shook his entire body.  It seemed likely that he had an infection we could not detect by an ordinary chest xray or ultrasound imaging of his abdomen, or a malignancy.  Then a blood count returned with a primitive cell ("blasts") that suggested leukemia or lymphoma.   I was making rounds without Kruy this week and decided to spend some of the limited money available for CT scans for the poor.  We found massive enlargement of lymph nodes in the center of his chest, where they would not be revealed by a chest xray.  It seemed most likely that he had a form of lymphoma and had stopped making all of the blood components.  Diagnosis of these conditions is now quite technical and complex--even biopsying his enlarged lymph nodes would require expertise not present at Sihanouk Hospital.  For patients like this in much of the world therapy can markedly prolong life and patients are sometimes cured, but we could offer nothing.  The Russian Hospital has an oncology program that could diagnose and care for him, but that care is for patients who can pay.  Russian Hospital would not accept him by a physician-to-physician phone call.  However sometimes they will admit poor patients who arrive at their door step.  We prepared a summary of what we had discovered, gave him his CT scan, and his family drove him by motor bike to Russian Hospital.  We have no idea if he was accepted--there is no communication between the for-profit hospitals and Sihanouk Hospital and no commitment by the private hospitals to care for the poor.  


Half of our patients are children or  young enough to have small children at home.  For these patients I have acquired no shell.  The young woman with lupus causing inflammation of the blood vessels in her brain, heart, and lining of her abdominal cavity continued to improve through the week.  Each day I examined her abdomen and tested her returning strength, not because she needed it, but because by touching her every day I could express both my caring about her and my happiness as she improved:  the meaning of a thumb held up is universal.  The day she left I asked if we could take her picture with the doctors who had cared for her (attached) :  she agreed.  I printed it and gave it to her in a plastic sleeve.  She said, "the ward made me unhappy but you have a good camera--it makes me and the ward look happy."  She was glad to leave, and I was glad to see her go--because two days later an  older woman was admitted with the same condition; she had a swollen face, extensive skin rashes, slurred speech, and severe heart failure."  If our younger patient had known what her lupus might result in for her, I think she would have lost some of the optimism we had tried to impart as she left.  

This is what I wrote back to the student:  

“I am as broken hearted about younger patients as last year--I still spend as much time with them as I can and as  my language limitations allow.  I still wish there more more that we could do.  I would still would prefer to be able to see them every few weeks to take care of them, but of course I will leave and not know what has happened to them.  For them, if I could stay to become their doctor, I would.  


”For most of the older patients with advanced cancer or tuberculosis or renal failure or end stage heart disease I have grown used to the limitations--often what we would do for them in the US would only squeeze out a few more months of existence.  In the US we have gotten accustomed to the notion of extending life and endlessly fighting for tiny incremental improvements--I have never been completely comfortable with that and recognize that for our Kamai patients,  there is not the same drive to live one or two more months as in the US”   

This week two patients with extensive lung destruction from tuberculosis and smoking were admitted; one had collapsed half his lung, the other had huge holes (bullae).  Both had reached the point where they had no reserve--a pneumonia or fever or the need to exert themselves would result in death--and did.  One developed delirium tremens, and in the intense agitation associated with that his lungs could not keep up.  The other climbed on to a bus the day after discharge and probably ruptured one of his bullae, further collapsing his lung.  He died at the side of the road, and his body, wrapped in a blanket, was pictured in the Phnom Penh newspaper.  Three times this week we thought older patients needed care that we could not give, and the family said they could not afford to pay for it.  The decision to let life end is made by the family--there simply isn't the money to pay for what has to be done.  I have grown to expect this and it does not seem altogether a bad thing:  the sadness that accompanies a grandmother's death simply occurs a month or two earlier.  

* * * 

The residents and my friends here often respond to something I am saying with a look of puzzlement or surprise.  Most speak limited English, and of course I speak no K'mai.  

I found self trying to explain these phrases this week:

--to a friend who seems unhappy, "is there something bothering you?  Is there something on your mind?"  I explained that her "mind" was in her head.  She went to look in a mirror.  

--to my driver, passing a new large department store, "it looks brand new."

--to no one in particular, "I think this patient has turned a corner."  To explain this I made wild hand signals indicating a deep descent, then a grave, then springing out of the grave.  This was equally ineffective.  

--to a resident translating for me, "do you have sex with men, women, or both?"  It took three minutes to untangle this one.  You would have thought I had asked if the patient had sex with dogs or parakeets.  I was actually going to ask that question, but after the uproar over the original question I decided to skip it.  

--to a resident, encouraging him to order a test, "we can kill two birds with one stone."  Here, people actually do kill birds with stones.  He both wanted to know why I wanted to kill a bird, and if I did want to kill a bird, what kind of stone did I need.  He has avoided me the last three days.  Other residents have begun to stare.  

* * * 

My guest house is owned by a young Kamai couple.  The woman lived in Paris from the age of 12 and opened her own restaurant on Rue St. Germain serving French and Khmer food.  A few years ago she moved back to Phnom Penh and opened a restaurant--le Safran--also serving Khmer and classic French Food.  She is about 30, quite beautiful, and cooks in beautiful clothes, high heals, and an apron.  Her food is the best I have eaten in Phnom Penh.  A few years ago they added the guest house and many of the amenities are French, including this packet of tea:

La Tisaniere Infusion Drainage et Elimination
Cette nouvelle infusion est un allié précieux pour aider le corps à se purifier.
ingrédients :  Queue de cerise, café vert, racine de chicorée, feuille de romarin, extrait d'artichaut, oranger.

If any of you are feeling a need to upgrade your drainage and elimination, let me know; I would be happy to bring you back a Tisane or two.  

* * * 

Much that I thought I understood about K'mai medical education last year was incomplete.  This year most of my teaching has been with the residents because the staff are even busier than last year as the hospital has asked them to take care of ever-increasing numbers of patients who can pay.  Being with the residents has had several advantages--I have started something like our morning reports--presentations of  patients they have cared for that serve as the basis for clinical reasoning and then mini-lectures.  And they have been showing me the ropes of medical education in Cambodia.

--Students who have good high school test scores are accepted into one of three medical schools.  There are some funds to help pay for students who are poor.  There seems to be no criteria for admission other than good tests and in most cases the ability to pay.  

--Medical school lasts 6 years, from ages 18-24.  It consists mostly of lectures and there is very little clinical exposure.  In this it is similar to Japan and many other Asian countries.  

--At the end of medical school they do a rotating internship in pediatrics, medicine, surgery, and obstetrics & gynecology.  At the end of each three-month block they have an oral examination.

--If they pass the national examination after the internship, they can write a thesis or "study" a specialty and then get a certificate.

--After that, they look for a job, either practice or training in a public hospital, a NGO hospital like Sihanouk Hospital, or a private hospital.  In October each of our seven residents were selected to do a probationary three-month residency at Sihahouk Hospital, and if they are approved, they will then do 9 more months of residency in internal medicine, with their time divided between inpatient wards, the emergency room, and clinics.  

--Following the one year residency at Sihanouk, the residents will either become junior staff at Sihanouk or another hospital or clinic, or compete for the very few specialty training programs (Cardiology, Pediatrics, Emergency Medicine).  Few seem to do this.

I asked the residents the other day what their dream is.  Two want to train in the US or another western country, one wants to be a pediatrician, another an endocrinologist, and a third an emergency medicine physician (I think EM training is "on the job," not a residency).  I showed them the distribution and number of foreign students who do residencies in the US.  It looks like this:

India  51,447  20.7% 
Philippines  20,601  8.3% 
Mexico  13,834  5.6% 
Pakistan  12,111  4.9% 
Dominican Republic  7,979  3.2% 
Grenada  6,749  2.7% 
USSR  6,450  2.6% 
Dominica  5,854  2.4% 
China  5,375  2.2% 
Egypt  5,266  2.1% 
Iran 4940 2.0% 
South Korea  4,845  2.0% 
Italy   4,732  1.9% 
Spain  4,343  1.8% 
Germany  4,197  1.7% 
Syria  3,869  1.6% 
United Kingdom  3,698  1.5% 
Montserrat  3,569  1.4% 
Colombia  3,343  1.3% 
Ireland  3,302  1.3%

What is striking is how few doctors from east and southeast Asia seek training in the US--the exceptions being Korea and China.  It is rare for a student from Cambodia to seek residency training in the west except for the few from wealthy families who go to college in the US.  When I explained what would be entailed in getting a US residency--at least one more year of clinical training and then passing the tests of basic science and clinical knowledge and clinical skills that American students take, passing a test of English competency,  and then interviewing at ten or fifteen or twenty residency programs (if they can even get invitations), there was a sense of discouragement.  Almost none have any money, and probably none speak English well enough to easily pass the language examination.  One resident showed me the fee schedule for the best English Language schools in Phnom Penh (ACE).  Ten weeks of advanced language training would cost $210.  She cannot afford it.  Her monthly salary at Sihanouk Hospital is $400, from which she pays for a room in which to live, her electricity and water, her food, and gas for her motor bike.  She has nothing left at the end of the month.  There are no loans for students or residents who don't have collateral (property).  She works too hard to moonlight.  

When I asked what she would do, she said "In Cambodia, for those who do not have money, there is nothing."

 I asked one of the young women who works at Le Safran who has graduated from college with a degree in accounting if there were jobs other than desk work.  She said, there are many people trained in accounting.  I asked how much she would be paid if she found an accounting job.  "$100 a month."  

* * * 

I have found the best coffee drink ever.  In the little shop outside the medical clinic I can buy Cambodian iced coffee with milk.  From a little coffee pot about a half cup of cold, oil-black coffee is poured into a plastic cup, and then a few tablespoons of thick condensed milk is spooned in.  This is filled with water and ice cubes.  It can be very sweet to just barely sweet and has a intense coffee flavor.  It cost 2500 real, 60 cents.  Served with a straw.   Devine.  

* * *

I have just a few more days here.  It has taken much of the three weeks just to get comfortable.  I have taken Kruy's place as the inpatient attending for six days.  There are so many loose ends, so many tasks not completed or left to the next day or forgotten entirely that my sense of responsibility kept me awake at night.  Finally I simply began to spend the entire day sitting in the middle of the ward with the nurses and doctors, with charts strewn over four desks, thumbing through to see if orders had been written, results returned, medications given.  Now that I am about to leave I want to stay.  

Tonight I am taking all the residents to dinner at Daroth's restaurant, where the average entree costs $6.00.  I will miss them.  As Daroth would say, they have good hearts.  We have talked about the future of medical education in Cambodia, and I have told them that they will be the generation that will create a new paradigm.  I asked them what they thought it should look like.  What they want is more training--more than a year of residency, a chance to see medicine as it is practiced in other countries.  That is how medicine in the US developed, with US physicians going to Europe in the '20s and '30's to study and then come back as teachers.    and scientists.  And European physicians came to the US and brought change with them.  The next steps for Cambodia are likely to involve both, physicians from other countries coming to teach, and Cambodian physicians going to train in other countries.  The money to do both will have to come from elsewhere, at least for the present.  

I will be sad to leave.